Saturday, June 24, 2017

Glittering Hostelry

Chapter XVI
  
Bates House



     The first hotel in Chariton was a two story, double log cabin on the south side of the square.  It was operated by Henry Allen in the best tradition of approved pioneer days.  Business seems to have flourished because there always had to be two occupants in each bed.  One night in February 1853, Joseph Braden came to town to open the land office.  He was told that only one bed was left and he might have to share it.  He went to bed and to sleep.  About midnight, a man came up the stairs in the dark making considerable noise and started to run his hand over the beds to ascertain which one had a place for him.  The first two or three were fully occupied but the lone occupant of the next one had awakened and sat bolt upright just as one hand reached out and touched his head.  The sleeper instantly dropped back on the pillow just in time for the explorer’s other hand to reach out and touch his head on the pillow.  The disgruntled searcher growled, “Two men in this bed; two men in every bed here” and promptly stomped down the stairs to raise a row with the landlord.  This unhappy guest was Dr. Charles Fitch – father of the late Laura Fitch, longtime teacher in the public schools of this county.  Frank Fitch, an engineer on the Burlington railroad and Dr. Ella Fitch who followed in her father’s profession.  Even after that, Dr. Fitch referred to Mr. Braden as “the man with two heads.”
     Mr. B. F. Bates built the Bates House and opened it for business in 1874.  It was a beautiful three story building of 25 rooms and steam heated throughout.  It stood on the lots where the National Bank and Trust Company is now located.  From the beginning it was popular and successful.  (This information is taken from the “dedication issue” of the Chariton Patriot of May 22, 1894, when the courthouse was dedicated.)
     Much of the following is taken from the journal of Mrs. B. R. Van Dyke, mother of the late Ralph Van Dyke, husband of Marie Van Dyke, who loaned the journal to this writer.  Mr. B. R. Van Dyke, affectionately called “Mr. Van” by almost everyone who knew him, was secretary at the Eikenberry and Company Lumber Yard.  For some time, he had wanted a business of his own.  Mr. Bates wanted him to buy the hotel and the deal was made.  Mr. Bates agreed to have it painted and papered throughout.  He even made a trip to Edina, Missouri, to buy feathers for 68 new pillows.  He also accompanied Mr. Van Dyke to Burlington to help in the selection of all new furniture and carpets as the new owners had decided to refurnish the whole establishment.
     Mr. Van Dyke resigned his position at the lumber yard and things began to hum at the Bates House.  He operated the sewing machines as they made 68 new sheets and a like number of pillow cases, pillows and comforters.  They bought new dinnerware at Brinsmaids – the leading china and glassware store in Des Moines at that time.  The new hotel-size coal burning kitchen range and all cooking utensils came from the Guylee and Larimer Store in Chariton.  Came March 15, 1887, and the hotel was reopened for business.  The whole enterprise had been carefully planned, every department was well organized and it started off in high gear.  From basement to roof it worked like a well-oiled machine.  The cost of meals was 25 cents and 50 cents.
     Eighteen trains came through every 24 hours and each passenger train was met day and night.  They had a very classy conveyance which they called a hack, drawn by a span of well-groomed black horses.  The name BATES HOUSE was inscribed on both sides.  George Newman was the coachman and is shown in the picture standing nearest the back.
    In later years, Mr. Newman operated a dray wagon for service to merchants on the square who handled heavy merchandise, hardware, furniture etc.
     The Bates House was no ordinary hotel.  It was avant garde – that is – ahead of the parade.  They had cooks who knew how to turn out the most delicious food.  The waitresses were also correct in dress and manner.  There was one long table of family size for seating large groups but all the other tables were around to seat four and only pure linen tablecloths and napkins were used.  Agnes McKinney worked there at one time and speaks glowingly of the efficient operation and its enviable reputation.  The silverware was polished every week without fail, the oak dining room floor was scrubbed every week besides being kept immaculate between times; the wall bracket lamps in the dining room as well as all other lamps throughout the buildings had to be cleaned, refilled and polished every day; the dinnerware and glassware were always sparkling and inviting.  There was a small room off the dining room where ice was kept and there was storage for cold foods.  One woman, a Mrs. Johnson, had charge of what they called the “dish room.”  Mrs. Van Dyke had charge of the purchasing and did all the mending of linens.  They had a full complement of help for in that day all work had to be done in the hostel – there was no outside facilities where work could be sent to be done.  Cooks, laundresses, chamber maids, waitresses, two desk clerks and two men at the barn – all contributed to the comfort and well being of the guests.  All employees received the same wages - $4 a week.  This seems pitifully small compared to present day inflationary pay scales, but Agnes McKinney says, “That was better than now, because we could keep it all and the things we had to buy were so much less.  It was all in proportion and we had stability.”
     It was always a very busy place during court week.  The judges, the non-resident lawyers, court reporters and other connected with court sessions, always stayed there.  It was the mecca for traveling salesmen, also.  The Depot Hotel was operating at this time, but it was not as pleasant nor as convenient.  It was farther from the passing through around the clock, on an average, of a train every hour and a half, with all the attendant noise and disturbances.  Also, traveling salesmen in that day carried trunks of samples.  The Bates House had large sample rooms with tables where goods could be displayed for selection and purchase.  Being close to the square, merchants could come quickly, make their selections, and return to their stores with a minimum loss of time.
     Chariton had no electricity at that time and Boyd Schotte remembers that when he was four or five-year-old, his father took him by the hand and they walked down to where the Yocom Park now is to watch the men working on the new city light plant.  This would have been about 1889-90.  In front of the Bates House were two post lamps.  George Steinbach remembers that these burned kerosene as did all other illumination devices of that day.
   “There is nothing so permanent as change,” Madame Swetchine added, “In this world of change, naught which comes, stays and naught which goes, is lost.”  The Bates House came, served its time, but its impact was not lost.  New owners bought it in September of 1912 and a brilliant quarter century of satisfying social life under the Van Dyke management passed into memory but will continue to live in the annals of Lucas county history.  It continued to be efficiently managed for several years but in the speeded up world, the curtain would inevitably ring down.
     Mr. Van Dyke was the ideal host – the major domo – that is the master of the house.  He was endowed by a nature with the social virtues, a princely mein but with a warm and winning personality.  His was the kind of leadership that inspired pride and loyalty in his employees.  He was always on hand to greet his guests, always impeccably dressed and had the rare gift of putting everyone at east and feeling at home.  Men were required to wear their coats in the dining room.  The Bates House had “atmosphere.”  You didn’t just eat there – you dined there.  You could even leave home and like it if you could stay there.  Through all their years, they had many regular boarders, among them over the years were Frank Crocker, a director and manager of the National Bank and Trust Company, Mr. William Eikenberry, Clyde Pickerell, Frank and Len Manning and many, many others.  There were always great crowds for Sunday dinner and that was at a time when “dining out” was not as common as it is today.
     Mrs. Harold Leonard remembers in her childhood when the family dined there on Sunday and that was a kind of high mark for the week.
     The Van Dykes moved into an apartment in the Piper building.  The September 7th entry in Mrs. Van Dyke’s journal reveals this bit of motherly devotion.  “This is Ralph’s 25th birthday. We are going to have him and Marie and granddaughter Ruth to supper with us this evening.  It will be the first meal Ralph has ever had of his mother’s cooking.  I am fixing as many things as I can by myself so that it will be my own cooking.”
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     One further paragraph in the colorful life of the Bates House.  In 1916, during President Woodrow Wilson’s administration, vice president, Thomas G. Marshall and Mrs. Marshall came through this part of the state on a political tour and Chariton was one of the stops.  They were met at the train by Mayor H. G. Larimer and Chairman Frank Smith and a host of people.  There were two conveyances – one for the Vice President and the gentlemen of the reception committee and the other for Mrs. Marshall and the ladies of the committee.
     All the buildings around the square were decorated in the colors.  From the Chariton Leader of Oct. 12, 1916, we have the following: “The Chariton band stood ready with instruments, poised and at the proper time the melodies of patriotism began to permeate the evening air and the splendid procession began to move, following the music.  The red, white and blue electric globes sparkled under the bright stars like a canopy of glory as the procession passed beneath and after parading the near city, the guests were taken to the Bates House where they were entertained during their stay in the city.  Everything was in perfect order for the occasion.  Landlord Welker had made a special effort to have everything in guest shape and the service appointments were without blemish.  Nothing was left undone either attractive to the eye or for comfort.  The tables were models of arrangement and the American Beauty roses lent enchantment to the fine menu.”
     An open air meeting had been planned for the large crowd to hear the Vice President but he had spoken at Ottumwa and preferred not to speak again in the open air that day.  The Armory was filled and hundreds turned away.  The Marshalls were highly pleased to visit Iowa and to have received such a warm and friendly reception from citizens of Lucas County.

Pages 64-68

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